Perfume Potpourri

Sydney Morning Herald

Thursday November 27, 2008

Helen Greenwood

Helen Greenwood tests a trio of feminine forces.

Secret Obsession

Calvin Klein

Perfumer Calice Asancheyev-Becker, Caroline Sabas, David Apel (Givaudan)

Family Woody

Key notes White flowers, honey, amber, smoky woods

$95 for 50ml

Rating: 3/5

You can't accuse Calvin Klein perfumes of not tapping into trends. In the 1980s, orientals were the vogue and so 1985 Obsession was one. In the noughties, woody is the category of the moment and so, naturally, Secret Obsession is a woody fragrance.

Much has been made of the orgasmic campaign featuring Eva Mendes for this third flanker born from the original.

Never mind the hype, what's the story behind the juice?

On my skin, this floriental went from being a predictable, somewhat shy, spicy harem sister, with a predilection for bon bons, to showing an earthier, greener and - dare I say - it edgier side.

I'd love to know if this was just a happy accident, a deliberate stroke of creativity or a slightly subversive intent inserted by the perfumer. If you try it and find the same thing happening, please let me know.

If you don't, then it's only two stars.

Insolence eau de parfum

Guerlain

Perfumer Maurice Roucel (Symrise)

Family Oriental

Key notes Iris, orange blossom, rose, violet, sandalwood, white musk, tonka bean, berries $124 for 50ml

Rating: 4/5

Insolence first popped up in 2006 as an eau de toilette and this eau de parfum has the same notes. But there is a difference.

Insolence opens with a burst of violets and violins, in the happy-go-lucky Henry Mancini style. Oh no, I thought, here's another pretty floral decoration with a marshmallow core.

Then, surprise. Acrobatic transformations take place as complex, clever accords come into play and suddenly this perfume imprints itself on your mind. You can also smell the Guerlain heritage, the signature bergamot, rose, iris, jasmine, tonka bean and vanilla, called guerlinade. Insolence refers to it constantly and tantalisingly, like clues in a treasure hunt.

Insolence packs a punch. But below its loud, look-at-me voice, there is soul and heart. That's what makes this perfume a standout.

Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang

Estee Lauder: Private Collection

Perfumer Annie Buzantian, Honorine Blanc-Hattab (Firmenich)

Family Oriental

Key notes Bergamot, geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, cinnamon, incense, sandalwood, vanilla $240 for 75ml

Rating: 3/5

Last year's Tuberose Gardenia was a commercial and critical knock-out. Deservedly. Erotic and elegant, with wonderful tenacity, it is sheer floral power.

Amber Ylang Ylang, the second in this exclusive range with the serious price tag, is less endowed in the personality department.

There's a steadiness to this perfume, a kind of restrained elegance that is very seductive. It is comforting like a cosy cashmere cardigan.

Amber Ylang Ylang is warm, polite, smooth and courteous but is sedate, not exciting.

Though I expected more verve and daring from this sibling scent, this is a finely wrought fragrance that will find a receptive audience.

© 2008 Sydney Morning Herald

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